Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance Kindle Edition PDF

Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance Kindle Edition
Author: Dan M. Hague ID: B004BJ1MPS

Done.
File Size: 14485 KBPrint Length: 240 pagesPublisher: Stackpole Books; Pap/DVD edition (February 17, 2006)Publication Date: October 30, 2005 Sold by:  Digital Services, Inc. Language: EnglishID: B004BJ1MPSText-to-Speech: Enabled X-Ray: Not Enabled Word Wise: Not EnabledLending: Not Enabled Enhanced Typesetting: Not Enabled Best Sellers Rank: #262,172 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store) #58 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Rock Climbing #127 in Kindle Store > Kindle eBooks > Nonfiction > Sports > Mountaineering #467 in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Mountaineering > Mountain Climbing
Training to climb is very sport specific. That is….. there is ample evidence that cross training to climb is not useful. For example being able to do 100 pull ups is probably not going to enhance your climbing ability much. Perhaps the only exception to this rule once you reach a certain level of climbing, is "reading" to climb. I must stress that without a certain baseline climbing experience reading about HOW to climb is not going to help you . However, as you excel you will find yourself plateauing. This is when mentoring will be of greatest benefit. Most cannot afford to be mentored by an experienced climber so you do the next best thing….mentor by proxy…you read a book.

In this regard, this book is one of the best "mentors" around. It takes you from your current plateaued level of climbing into an exponential phase of improvement. The book explains climbing by looking at movement which is composed of space, time, force and balance, efficiency of movement and psychology of movement. After explaining these topics the author gives specific exercises to improve these aspects of climbing.

The author then integrates these concepts into a coherent training schedule by first identifying your current level of performance in actual climbing. He then spells out what you should be doing at that level of climbing to progress to the next level. I particularly appreciated this part of the book.

For example let’s say your current level of climbing is 5.10. He gives you a detailed training schedule of how to improve your level of climbing to 5.11. He holds your hand telling you how to warm and for how long, what bouldering problems to do, what climbs to do and how to do them, how to train both aerobically and anaerobically.
Pluses:

This is an impressive and comprehensive guide to understanding and improving your climbing. It is my favorite book on climbing technique. (Unfortunately, there isn’t much decent competition. Niche, meet potential audience). There are some great movement exercises that I’ve found very useful in my training (the particularly the traversing and turning section). The authors worked incredibly hard and put together a book that is well worth the cost, even without the DVD. The DVD that’s included is worth the price of the book itself, as it’s extremely concise, well organized, and clear.

Minuses:

The title is wrong. This is essentially a textbook written for experienced climbers, or better, for people teaching climbing to experienced climbers. For the lay reader, it is far too dense and jargon-y. The intrasport climbing jargon is always frustrating enough (who makes this stuff up?), and then layer on kinesiology and physics, and…oof. Not an easy read. The overall organizational structure is not that effective (too much theory up front) and some of the instructions seem rushed and are difficult to follow. As a self-coaching guide, it would have been more effective with less theory and more technique and training. Overall, the book is written for someone climbing in the high 5.11s and up – the initial examples are for people climbing around 5.12. There are a few later examples for those of us climbing in the 10s (yes, that’s me and that’s my bias), but they seem a little tacked on. I would like the glossary to be much more thorough, but again, there is an assumption that the reader already knows quite a bit about the subject.

Overall:

This is the best reference book on climbing technique that I have ever read. By far.

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